Home > Blog > 25+ Expert Tips for Paint by Numbers
What you will find here: More than 25 practical paint by numbers tips covering workspace setup, paint consistency, brush technique, colour order, blending, troubleshooting, and finishing. Written for both beginners painting their first kit and experienced painters who want noticeably better results.
Written by William Murdock, founder of Paint On Numbers Canada.
Most people open their first paint by numbers kit, work their way through the numbers, and end up with something that looks reasonable but not quite like what they imagined. The painting is recognisable, the colours are roughly right, but it has that flat, amateur quality that is hard to put your finger on.
The gap between a decent result and a genuinely impressive one is almost never about talent. It is about a handful of specific techniques that most people never get told. After running Paint On Numbers Canada and watching thousands of people go through this process, I know exactly where the results diverge. These are the tips that make the actual difference.
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Setting up your workspace
Your environment affects your results more than most people realise. A poorly lit workspace, an unstable surface, or a cramped setup leads to shaky lines and tired eyes long before the painting is done.
Tip 1: Get the lighting right
Natural daylight is ideal because it shows paint colours accurately and reduces eye strain over long sessions. If you are painting in the evening or in a room without good natural light, use a daylight LED lamp positioned to your non-dominant side so your hand does not cast a shadow across your working area. Overhead lighting alone is almost never enough for the detail work that paint by numbers requires.
Tip 2: Work on a flat, stable surface
A kitchen table or desk works well. Avoid working on your lap or on a soft surface like a bed because any movement transfers to your brush and produces wobbly lines in sections where you need precision. If you want to take your setup seriously, a small drafting table that tilts to about 45 degrees reduces neck and shoulder strain significantly on longer sessions.
Tip 3: Protect the table before you start
Lay down a few sheets of newspaper, a silicone mat, or an old tablecloth before you open anything. Acrylic paint dries quickly and bonds permanently to most surfaces. A few seconds of prep saves you from a very irritating cleanup or a permanently stained table.
Tip 4: Have two cups of water ready
Most people use one cup and wonder why their colours start looking muddy halfway through a session. Use one cup for rinsing dirty brushes and a second clean cup for thinning paint. When the first cup gets murky, the second stays clean enough to dilute paint without contaminating it with residual colour from previous sections.
Before your first brushstroke
The five minutes you spend preparing before you pick up a brush will save you hours of frustration during the painting itself.
Tip 5: Photograph your blank canvas first
Before you paint a single section, take a clear photo of the blank numbered canvas with your phone. This is your insurance policy. Once a section is painted you cannot easily see what number was there, and if you ever question which colour belongs somewhere you have already started, your photo gives you the answer instantly. It takes ten seconds and is worth it every time.
Tip 6: Keep your reference image visible throughout
Your kit includes a printed colour reference image of the finished painting. Prop it up where you can see it easily while you work. The reference does two things: it shows you the intended colour relationships between adjacent sections, and it helps you make blending decisions that the numbered system alone cannot communicate. The numbers tell you what colour to use. The reference image tells you how the finished painting should actually look and feel.
Tip 7: Match your paint pots to the canvas key before you start
Spend a minute cross-referencing the numbers on your paint pots with the colour key on the canvas. Make sure every number has a corresponding pot and that none are missing. Discovering a missing colour mid-session is far more disruptive than catching it before you start.
Tip 8: Apply a coat of clear gesso for smoother coverage
This is an optional step that experienced painters swear by. A thin coat of clear acrylic gesso applied with a wide foam brush and allowed to dry completely before painting creates a slightly more receptive surface that helps paint adhere more evenly and makes covering the printed numbers easier. It adds about 30 minutes of drying time but noticeably improves the smoothness of the finished result, particularly on detailed designs.
Colour order and strategy
How you sequence your colours has a bigger effect on the final result than almost any individual technique. Most beginners work through the numbers in order from one to however many colours the kit has. It feels logical but produces inconsistent results.
Tip 9: Always paint dark colours before light ones
This is the single most impactful strategic tip in paint by numbers. Dark acrylic paint covers light sections cleanly in one or two coats. Light paint over dark sections almost never achieves full coverage without multiple coats and often still looks slightly transparent. Start with your blacks, deep blues, dark browns, and forest greens. Work progressively toward mid-tones, then finish with your lightest colours and highlights. Your painting will look more cohesive and you will spend far less time on touch-ups.
Tip 10: Work in sections, not by number across the whole canvas
Rather than painting every section labelled with number 3 across the whole canvas before moving to number 4, pick an area roughly the size of your hand and complete all the colours within that area before moving on. This approach has two advantages: you make visible progress in one part of the painting rather than scattered dots everywhere, and you can make informed blending decisions between adjacent colours while they are both still in progress in the same area.
Tip 11: Paint backgrounds before foreground details
Sky, water, grass, and other large background sections should be painted before the detailed foreground elements that sit in front of them. If you accidentally stray outside a small foreground section into the background, it is easy to correct when the background is not yet painted. If the background is already done, any overlap requires careful touch-up work.
Tip 12: Group similar colours together in your session
If your kit has several shades of blue, green, or brown, paint all of them in the same session rather than switching between wildly different colours. This minimises the number of brush cleans you need and keeps your palette feeling organised. You will also start to notice the subtle relationships between adjacent colour groups, which helps with blending decisions.
| Painting order | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Dark colours first | Dark covers light cleanly. Reversing this requires multiple coats and rarely looks clean. |
| Background before foreground | Any background overlap onto foreground sections is easily corrected before the detail work begins. |
| Work in local areas | Visible progress per session and better blending decisions between adjacent colours. |
| Highlights and whites last | Light colours applied last pop against the finished surrounding tones rather than getting muddied. |
Brush technique and paint consistency
These are the day-to-day habits that separate a tidy, professional-looking result from a patchy one.
Tip 13: Two thin coats beat one thick coat every time
This is the most universally ignored piece of advice in paint by numbers and the one that makes the biggest visible difference. One thick coat looks uneven, shows brush strokes, dries with an inconsistent texture, and often still shows the printed numbers underneath. Two thin coats, applied after the first is fully dry, give you smooth and completely opaque coverage. It takes more patience but the result is objectively better in every way.
Tip 14: Use the right brush size for each section type
Your kit includes multiple brush sizes because they genuinely serve different purposes. Use your wide flat brush for large background sections. Use your medium brush for most regular-sized sections. Save your fine detail brush exclusively for the small and intricate sections that require precision. Using a fine brush for a large sky section exhausts your wrist and takes forever. Using a wide brush in a tiny detail section produces sloppy edges. The right brush for each job makes both the process and the result better.
Tip 15: Use just the tip for clean edges
When painting up to the edge of a section, use only the very tip of the brush and hold it lightly. Pressing the belly of the brush against the canvas causes paint to spread unpredictably beyond the printed outline. Light pressure with the tip gives you far more control over where the paint actually goes.
Tip 16: Get your paint consistency right
Fresh acrylic paint from a well-sealed pot should flow smoothly off the brush without being watery. If it feels too thick or drags on the canvas, add a single drop of distilled water to the pot and mix it in. One drop is almost always enough. Too much water makes the paint transparent, which means you will see printed numbers through the dried surface no matter how many coats you apply. One drop at a time is the rule. If your paint has dried out completely, our guide on how to revive dried acrylic paint covers every situation.
Tip 17: Close paint pots immediately when not in use
Acrylic paint dries quickly once exposed to air, particularly in a warm or dry room. Close the lid on any pot you are not actively using. This is not optional if you want to avoid finding your paints dried out halfway through a session.
Tip 18: The toothpick method for tiny sections
Even the finest brush in your kit can feel too large for the smallest sections on a detailed canvas. A wooden toothpick dipped in paint lets you dot in tiny sections with precision that no brush can match. It sounds unusual but experienced painters use this regularly on intricate designs.
Blending for a professional finish
Blending is what takes a paint by numbers result from looking like a colour-in sheet to something that looks like an actual painting. It is not difficult but it requires good timing.
Tip 19: Blend while the paint is still wet
Paint two adjacent sections while both are still wet, then use a clean dry brush to very lightly feather the boundary where the two colours meet. Short, gentle strokes perpendicular to the boundary line work best. The goal is not to mix the colours together but to soften the hard edge between them so the transition looks natural rather than like two shapes placed next to each other.
Tip 20: Work quickly in blending sections
Acrylic paint dries faster than most beginners expect, sometimes in as little as five to ten minutes depending on the room temperature and humidity. When you intend to blend two sections, paint them in quick succession and blend immediately. If either section has already dried before you start blending, wet blending will not work and you will need to use a dry blending technique instead.
Tip 21: Dry brushing for subtle texture
Load a small amount of paint onto a brush and then wipe most of it off on a paper towel until the brush is almost dry. Then drag it lightly across a section of the canvas. The result is a broken, textural stroke that adds depth to areas like foliage, fur, clouds, and water without making them look flat. This is one of the most effective techniques for making a paint by numbers look more painterly and less digital.
Tip 22: Add your own highlights and shadows
Once the main sections are complete and dry, you can add subtle depth by mixing a slightly lighter version of any colour and adding small highlight strokes to the areas where light would naturally fall, and a slightly darker version for shadows. This is entirely optional but it is the step that consistently makes the difference between a good result and an exceptional one. Our complete guide to blending colours covers this in much more depth if you want to go further.
Fixing common problems
Every painter runs into these at some point. None of them are disasters and all of them have straightforward fixes.
Tip 23: Numbers still showing through after painting
This almost always happens with light colours like pale yellow, white, light pink, or cream. The printed numbers on the canvas are dark enough to show through thin or semi-transparent paint. The solution is always the same: let the first coat dry completely, then apply a second thin coat. If numbers are still visible after two coats, your paint is too dilute. Try applying the next coat without adding any water to the pot.
Tip 24: Painted the wrong colour in a section
Do not panic and do not try to wipe it off while wet, that usually makes the situation worse. Let the incorrect colour dry completely, which takes about 15 to 20 minutes. Once dry, apply the correct colour over the top. One coat is usually enough to cover it if the correct colour is the same shade or darker. A lighter correct colour over a dark mistake may need two coats.
Tip 25: Streaky, uneven coverage
Streaks happen when there is not quite enough paint on the brush or the paint has started to dry before you finished the section. Let the streaky area dry fully, then apply a second coat with a slightly more loaded brush. Work in one direction rather than back and forth, which tends to lift the partially-dried paint below and create more streaking.
Tip 26: Paint dried in the pot
A single drop of warm water added to the pot and stirred gently with a toothpick is usually all it takes to restore workable consistency. If the paint has hardened completely, our detailed guide on reviving dried acrylic paint has step-by-step instructions for every stage of drying.
Tip 27: Brush bristles splaying or bending
Bristles splay when the brush is overloaded with paint or pressed too hard against the canvas. Rinse the brush immediately in water and reshape the tip with your fingers. If the bristles have dried in a splayed position, soak the tip in warm water for a minute, reshape, and let it dry standing upright. Most quality nylon brushes will recover their shape.
Tip 28: Canvas warping or buckling
Thin canvas warps when it gets wet from paint. If your canvas starts to buckle, let it dry completely and then lay it face down under a heavy book for several hours. For future sessions, use thinner paint application to reduce moisture. If your canvas arrived with fold lines from shipping, our guide on removing canvas creases explains how to fix them before you start.
Finishing and displaying your painting
The last ten percent of the process is where most people stop too early. These final steps are what separate a finished painting from a frame-worthy one.
Tip 29: Do a final light check before declaring it done
Hold your fully dry canvas up at a slight angle to a light source and look across the surface. Any sections where the printed numbers or lines are still faintly visible will show up clearly in raking light. Go back over those areas with one more thin coat and let them dry before proceeding to varnish.
Tip 30: Seal with varnish before framing
A coat of clear acrylic varnish is the single most important finishing step and the one most beginners skip. Varnish protects the paint from dust, UV fading, and moisture, and it unifies the surface sheen across sections that may have dried with slightly different finishes. Gloss varnish makes colours more vibrant and gives a rich, traditional painting look. Matte varnish gives a softer, more contemporary finish with no reflections. Apply it with a wide, clean brush in long even strokes in one direction, and allow it to dry completely before handling. Our full guide on how to seal your paint by numbers covers every type of varnish and how to apply it correctly.
Tip 31: Choose your framing option before you finish painting
Knowing how you plan to display the painting changes some of your finishing decisions. A rolled canvas needs to be stretched onto a frame or mounted before it can go on the wall. A canvas that arrived pre-stretched is ready to hang as soon as it is varnished. If you are unsure which option suits your painting, our guide to no frame vs DIY frame vs stretched on frame explains the practical differences.
Tip 32: Take a photo of the finished painting in good light
Before you frame it, photograph the finished painting in natural daylight. This gives you a permanent record of your work that you can share, print, or use as inspiration for future kits. Many painters find that seeing the finished work in a photo gives them a better sense of its overall quality and helps them identify what to focus on next time.
Quick reference: all 32 tips at a glance
| # | Tip | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Get the lighting right | Accurate colour perception and reduced eye strain |
| 2 | Work on a flat stable surface | Eliminates brush wobble from surface movement |
| 3 | Protect the table first | Acrylic bonds permanently to most surfaces |
| 4 | Use two cups of water | Keeps dilution water clean and prevents muddy colours |
| 5 | Photo the blank canvas | Reference for painted-over sections |
| 6 | Keep reference image visible | Guides colour relationships and blending decisions |
| 7 | Match pots to canvas key first | Catches missing colours before you start |
| 8 | Apply clear gesso first | Smoother surface, better paint adhesion |
| 9 | Dark colours before light | The single biggest strategic improvement |
| 10 | Work in local areas | Better blending decisions and visible progress |
| 11 | Background before foreground | Easier correction of overlap errors |
| 12 | Group similar colours per session | Fewer brush cleans, better colour awareness |
| 13 | Two thin coats not one thick | Smooth opaque coverage every time |
| 14 | Right brush for each section | Better control and faster coverage |
| 15 | Use just the brush tip for edges | Clean crisp lines without overflow |
| 16 | Get paint consistency right | One drop of water at a time |
| 17 | Close pots when not in use | Prevents drying mid-session |
| 18 | Toothpick for tiny sections | More precise than any brush for smallest areas |
| 19 | Blend while paint is wet | Soft transitions between adjacent colours |
| 20 | Work quickly when blending | Acrylics dry in 5 to 10 minutes |
| 21 | Dry brush for texture | Adds depth to foliage, fur, clouds, water |
| 22 | Add highlights and shadows | The step that takes good results to exceptional |
| 23 | Numbers showing through | Second coat after full drying always fixes this |
| 24 | Wrong colour painted | Let dry completely then paint correct colour over |
| 25 | Streaky coverage | Second coat in one direction with a loaded brush |
| 26 | Paint dried in pot | One drop warm water, stir gently |
| 27 | Bristles splaying | Rinse immediately, reshape, dry upright |
| 28 | Canvas warping | Dry flat under weight, use thinner paint coats |
| 29 | Final light check | Catches missed sections before varnishing |
| 30 | Seal with varnish | Protection, unified finish, richer colours |
| 31 | Choose framing before finishing | Changes your final preparation steps |
| 32 | Photo the finished painting | Permanent record and future reference |
Ready to put these tips into practice?
Browse our full range of adult kits or create a custom kit from your own photo. Every Paint On Numbers kit includes linen-blend canvas, pre-mixed acrylics, three brush sizes, and a printed reference image.
Written by William Murdock
Founder of Paint On Numbers Canada. William has been painting and studying paint by numbers technique for years and built this guide from the specific points where he sees most painters get stuck.
The bottom line
The difference between a mediocre result and something you genuinely want to hang on your wall is not talent. It is a handful of specific habits around colour order, paint consistency, brush technique, and finishing. None of them are difficult once you know them, and most of them take effect immediately the first time you apply them.
Work through the tips in this guide and you will notice the difference from your very next session. If you want to go deeper on any specific technique, our guides on blending colours, sealing and varnishing, and advanced techniques cover each area in much more detail.